With Great British Bake Off back on our screens this month, we caught up with everyone’s favourite baker – old blues eyes himself Paul Hollywood – to discuss his way to the top, his new cookbook and everything else in between.
Can you remember the first recipe you baked?
My dad used to bake soft rolls, and I remember he would have a towel over them in front of the gas fire in the sitting room. I remember they had that proper homemade baking taste and smell to them. That always stuck with me, but I didn’t really help out or get involved with that. It was my mum’s ginger biscuits which was probably the first thing I actually helped out with. She is famous for them and still makes me a fresh batch to this day every time I head up to see her. They were simply delicious – quite chewy and the ultimate dunkers. You could dunk them 8 or 9 times and they would still hold.
If you weren’t a baker, where do you think you would be now?
I did actually sign up to the tank regiment in the army but pulled out at the last minute and ended up working for my dad’s bakeries. The army was definitely an option as we had some family members signed up.
What put you off?
The money. This was in the 80s with Maggie squeezing us Northerners so you needed to get a trade and to get a job. The money just didn’t seem that good in the tank regiment. I also flirted with teaching because after art school I actually taught a few classes in pottery but my main aim as a teenager was to earn.
What were your other passions as a youngster?
When I was school, I loved skateboarding. We had a brutal hill outside our house so I would catamaran down the hill with my brother’s mates. We started at the top and would fly down the hill and end up under cars or smashing our hands and wrists to pieces on the pavements. I remember we even took on the hill on Tonka Toys – sitting in a dumper truck and flying down the hill. In addition to that I played badminton, basketball and when I was a bit older, I played a few games of rugby. While working in Cyprus, I played in a 7s tournament which included the armies of the world. Our team was cobbled together but the opposition were huge and it was a brutal experience.
Are you still learning?
I travel a lot filming and I’m always seeing new bakes, techniques and recipes that fascinate me. A few weeks ago I was in the Caribbean and for breakfast they would bring these Danish pastries – a bit like a pain aux raisin but they had lifted the sides and created a nest that was filled with crème patisserie. I said to them- how the hell did you do that? They actually used a mould, and I thought- that’s really clever so yeah – I’m always learning.
Do you still bake?
Yep – I still bake. The advert showcases me using a pre-mix but I honestly don’t mind a pre-mix but I generally still use raw ingredients. I bake twice a week. Sometimes it’s cake or banana bread but it’s mostly bread. You can’t beat the smell and taste of freshly baked bread for breakfast. I’m still an egg and soldiers man for breakfast so it’s about baking the best bread for soldiers. Whenever I go away, I’m always disappointed as the bread isn’t exactly how I like it. I like it crispy, light, loaded with butter and perfectly cut for the ultimate dip.
Sourdough seems to be everywhere this past decade – what’s your view?
It is everywhere and to some extent, you can’t not buy sourdough nowadays as it dominates. Everyone is raving about it and it has its place. For example, grilled tomatoes on top of sourdough with some balsamic vinegar is a delight or with pates but I don’t like it all the time. I like fermented. I like the flavour coming from the ferment rather than the sour. Some sourdough can be too strong. It’s why I like to bake my own bread as you can have a better control on the flavour, texture and crust.
Any styles of loaves/breads that could tip sourdough off the throne?
Pitta bread, wraps, quality corn tortillas. They have definitely become more popular and I love making these styles of breads as well. You can’t beat a great baguette either – crispy, light and loads of flavour. They’re great for breakfast with just a bit of butter and jam. I would walk down and grab them for breakfast when I was in France, eat it and go and get another for lunch. Things go in fads, but I don’t think sourdough is going anywhere soon. It will only get better.
What do you love most about your job? Meercats?
I literally eat pastries and cake for a job. I’m not sure anything is better than that. My job is pretty straight forward nowadays – it’s eating.
What do you miss most about a professional kitchen or bakery?
I was often up early preparing everything for breakfast so my team was often quite solitary but there was always a great camaraderie with the staff and team. It was always a good laugh in the kitchen. I also miss being up at stupid hours when everything else was closed and walking to work and also the fantastic kit we had to use and play with. Being creative.
Tell us about the new book Celebrate
I was working on it for about a year, but I always have recipes and ideas bouncing around. I will be influenced by the bakers from the tent or bakeries I visited. I will ponder – would that work with that, or could I try that combination in a different bake? I always jot ideas down so by the time I think it’s time for a new book, I generally have about 20 ideas already bubbling, which I can refine and test. This book is unique in that it can be quite seasonal with your vegetables and fruits as you move through the year or bakes for key celebrations like Easter.
Who are you most proud to have baked for?
I love baking for friends and family but back in the 80s I baked for King Charles. I created his feathers in bread for his table and I had a note back saying he enjoyed it. That was nice and a real buzz.
Who would you love to bake with or for?
Nick Mason from Pink Floyd. He’s been threatening to come down and I know him quite well. Nick and I need to get our bake on. Robert Plant would be good as well
Are you still up early?
I still get up fairly early – probably around 6.30 – but this is mainly due to the cats making dough and kneading on my chest. I like to go to bed early around 11pm and I like being up early, especially in summer.
What do you put down to your success?
Luck. It couldn’t have happened to anybody. My face was literally in the right place at the right time. Don’t get me wrong, my career as a baker happened because I loved what I did, I was focused, worked hard and I was good at it. The TV side of things was just luck.
How did the Hollywood’s celebrate big occasions growing up?
We had the classic northern birthdays – egg sandwiches, ham sandwiches, a trifle and then traybakes and a chocolate cake. You can’t beat a good buffet. As I got older, vol-aux-vents became the big thing, especially as part of a buffet. This is why I had to put my chicken and leek vol-aux-vents in the book. They’re great on a buffet. I have a sausage plait and beef pies in the book too but both can be turned into smaller buffet dishes as well.
Big goals for 2025?
I want to try and get a bit fitter. I have a bicycle I can use and didn’t get out on it much last year. I seem to have been hit by a bout of colds this past year.
Are you a MAMIL (middle age man in Lycra)?
Yep, I’m afraid I am. I go down quiet roads and the bikes fast enough for me to dash off if I get spotted.
Anything new from GBBO you’re looking forward to this year?
We start GBBO soon and some good weather would be nice. It was a bit cold last year and I have a hammock outside my area, which I would like to use a bit more in between takes.
Any contestants stand out in your mind?
Even if I did, I would never say. It’s like choosing a favourite child. You can’t do it. Sixteen years of GBBO – 160 bakers – it wouldn’t be fair to name any favourites.
Are there any trends that are exciting you in food at present?
I never go out so I wouldn’t know.
That was my next question – what was the last restaurant you ate at?
I was in London and I popped into the Pavillion at the Four Seasons. Absolutely incredible – the food was amazing.
How often do you eat out?
Probably about once a week. We have some decent places locally.
Do you think the government does enough to help the baking and hospitality industry?
I don’t really like any government. They all start saying one thing and then do the opposite.
With pubs closing at a fast rate and your wife recently having to sell hers – do you think the pub industry is under threat?
Running a pub is always tough and everyone has been suffering since Covid. People’s drinking habits have changed and the state of the economy has been hitting pubs and consumers.
Guilty pleasure?
A Sunday Roast. I adore them. Even in the heat of summer in the time of barbecues, I love a good roast dinner. I eat less lamb and beef nowadays but I make a mean chicken roast. I’ll spend an hour on the gravy just making sure that’s right. You have to get the gravy right and you need lots of it. Your roast should be swimming in it.
Do you miss not getting gravy in the chippy?
Yep. What’s wrong with these people down here?!! I went to my local and asked for a sausage dinner and he didn’t know what I was talking about. Chips, sausages, gravy and mushy peas.
Favourite meal of the day – breakfast, lunch or dinner?
I love breakfast. It sets you up for the day and I often skip dinner.
Three kitchen secrets for baking success
- Buy my book
- Make sure your oven is clean and is attaining the temperature you need.
- Get a decent table mixer.
Can you share a recipe with us from the new book that is perfect for a summer celebration?
If you have people coming over for a summer party, try the mojito cupcakes. I love a mojito but these are next level. For the kids, the Fraisier Cake is a good one, which is essentially strawberries and cream. There is an Eton Mess as well that is trifle—ish so that would be another dish that is great for summer. Finally, a rainbow cake or a sausage plait are another couple that would be brilliant for alfresco celebrations.
