Leading Lights: Ben Crittenden

Co-Founder and Chef, Stark

With a CV full of experience from working with rockstar-turned-Michelin-star-chef Graham Garret to competing in MasterChef: The Professionals, it’s no surprise that Ben Crittenden had the skill and confidence to open his first restaurant, Stark in Broadstairs at such a young age. Almost 10 years (and a series of awards) later, Ben is on the move once more, opening his restaurant in a new location in West Mersea. We caught up with him to learn more about his culinary journey.

How and when did your passion for food and cooking begin?

At the age of 16, I took an apprenticeship opportunity because I wanted to work and earn money, but my first job at Marchesi’s in Broadstairs made me love the job. I worked with a great group of people who were passionate about the job and most of them are still my best friends to this day because they encouraged me to pursue my career after seeing potential.

When you secured your original space in Broadstairs, was it always the dream to transform it into the business you have today, or did the vision evolve over time?

I just wanted to work for myself and continue doing the job I love with a better work/life balance. Stark offering a set tasting menu wasn’t always the intention, but because it’s our sole household income, I needed to know what kind of income we were relying on, so we decided on a set price per head and worked backwards from there as to what justifies that price, based on the price/quality of the ingredients I use.

Can you describe the guest experience at Stark?

Upon entering, you’re greeted by the smell of the Harrison oven, which is fuelled by charcoal and the slightly louder than usual, Stark playlist, which is a mix of pop, indie and rock music that Soph and myself like. From the get-go, it’s a very relaxed, friendly atmosphere that should hopefully make you feel like you’re at a dinner party at our home. We like to leave you to enjoy the meal and evening with whoever you’ve chosen to bring with you, only asking for the occasional drinks order if you haven’t chosen the accompanying wine flight. Hopefully no one feels uncomfortable or out of place at Stark, as there’s no set dress code and we just want all of our guests to feel welcome and enjoy their evening.

What prompted such a radical break from the norm?

Never seeing my kids! Before I worked for myself, I only ever had two days off and worked from 9am until midnight or 1am so they were in bed asleep when I got home and usually when I had to leave for work in the morning.

Do you miss not having a wider team around you in the kitchen?

Sometimes I miss the banter but, on the whole, I like getting on with what I have to do and not having to worry about other people too much. I just want to get my prep work done to see the kids after school for a quick break and then I go to work with Soph and we have a laugh so I’m happy with that.

What are your main flavour influences?

Whatever is seasonal and high quality. I prefer to support smaller businesses because they tend to have more passion behind the product they’re offering, but whatever seems the best quality when I give it a try.

What challenges have you had to overcome and what did you learn?

We learnt fairly early on not to pander too much to what some people think is their right as the customer. We’ve made Stark everything we’d want in a restaurant if we were dining out as a couple; relaxed and informal service, the experience focussing on the flavour profiles and presentation.