Chef, author and broadcaster, Ruth Hansom
After bursting onto the food scene as a teenager when winning the Springboard FutureChef, it was clear to all that young chef Ruth Hansom was always going to succeed. Starting out at Boundary in Shoreditch, she then undertook a three-year apprenticeship at The Ritz, under the mighty executive chef John Williams MBE. Following a couple more competition wins and a number of stages, Ruth headed up the Luton Hoo Hotel, Pomona and The Princess of Shoreditch before moving back to the family patch in Bedale near Darlington to open her own restaurant, Hansom. We caught up with Ruth to discuss where it all began and her route to the top.
Do you still grow veg?
The patch is still at my parents’ house, but I just don’t have the time at present to grow my own. It’s definitely something I would like to do more of in the future. We work closely with a kitchen garden over the road so I’m often over there picking things.
How did your passion for cookery develop?
It really was the Springboard FutureChef competition that was the turning point in my life. I always wanted to be a doctor and loved maths and science. I was also doing food technology as an option and the teacher recommended that I enter the competition. I have always been competitive and enjoyed extracurricular activities at school, so I actually ended up competing three times. Making the national final was really the moment when the doctor dream disappeared and a culinary future took its place. Before the competition, I had never really been to London so just being in the capital made a huge impression on me – the culture, the vibe, the eating scene. After winning, I had chefs giving me their cards and saying, ‘if you come to London and need work, call me.’ It was unreal. I realised I could literally jump right into this career, earn and learn at the same time. I was only 16 but I knew what I wanted so I found a flat on Gumtree, enrolled at Westminster Kingsway College and headed down
to the bright lights of London.
Before FutureChef, what was your view of a career as a chef?
I didn’t really know the career path of a chef. Until you have a taste of the industry, you just think being a chef is something you fall into or the plan B. Going to FutureChef and seeing the people who make up the industry and how respected they are – seeing how much there is to learn to be the best and all the competitions and different career paths within the industry – it energised me and made me see being a chef as a career and lifelong passion, not just a job.
Why did you keep going back?
I loved my three years competing and was never going to give up until I won. The first round was at the school, so that’s not too scary, but then you’re competing regionally and then the final so the pressure and nerves crank up.
Why are competitions so valuable?
They are brilliant for building confidence and skillset. Each competition will have a different brief, so it pushes you to develop, improve and ultimately grow. In the day-to-day job, there can often be a lot of repetition, so competitions give you a break from that. As a young chef, you’re always cooking other chefs’ dishes when you’re learning your trade, so competitions give you a chance to be imaginative and test your skills and menu creativity. You also make some great friends. Being in London on my own, building a network of friends and contacts was even more important. The competition is so valuable in that regard. I still speak regularly to people I first met at the competition 15 odd years ago.
Tell us about the restaurant and its ethos?
We’re nearly two years old now which has flown by. With the conditions in hospitality as they are, it’s certainly not been easy, and I was probably a bit naïve but you have to take risks. The first three months were so challenging – just the shift from the Head Chef role to Business Operator. My husband and I didn’t want to go down the backer route, so we have done – and still do – everything ourselves. I still take the reservations, I’m the only chef in the kitchen and my husband is our taxi service – dropping guests home. It’s a nice way to have that early contact with our guests. I can ask about any special occasions, and it makes the visit more personal.
Is it just you doing all the cooking?
Yes, it’s just me and it does have its challenges. I do have a friend who runs an event business who does help out here and there. We met on the Great British Menu and she is a fantastic collaborator. It works for both of us as she can use our kitchen for prepping so it’s win-win.
It’s also why I concentrate on a tasting menu. Guests don’t have to choose anything and they know exactly what they are going to get – the best seasonal produce from the Yorkshire area and dishes created and plated by my own hand. The tasting menu means we can be ultra prepared for service and know exactly what we need to cater for and any dietary requirements. With à la carte, you often over prep and waste time really. On my own, that’s not something I can afford to do.
Find out more
For more information or to book, visit The Hansom Restaurant website.
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