Into the Wild - The Queen of Herbs

In the first of our special interviews centred around master gardeners, growers, foragers and other nature loving specialists, we caught up with true royalty – the almighty Queen of Herbs Jekka McVicar. With a half century of herb growing experience, a successful nursery and business, countless awards and accolades plus fans such as Raymond Blanc, Jamie Oliver and the late Queen, we asked Jekka why all chefs should be growing fresh herbs.

What are the benefits to chefs who grow their own herbs?

There is really nothing better than being able to go outside and pick fresh herbs to use on a dish. The smallest bit of gardening brings you more in touch with nature. The outdoors, fresh air, hands in the soil. I promise you; it heightens the senses.

The fact that you can also say on your menu ‘grown here’ is a real plus and adds value. It shows your herbs are local and they haven’t been driven across the country or flown in from abroad, which a lot of the fresh cut herbs are, especially in winter.

Fresh herbs contain vital essential oils and provide a superior flavour. Even just as a garnish for that last bit of glitz, the flavour of the dish multiplies.

We also eat with our eyes, so edible flowers from herbs are a fantastic tool for visual effect and finishing dishes. For example, chives (Allium schoenoprasum) not only give you the leaves, but they also give you the beautiful flowers that taste of sweet onion. Simply break up one of the flower bulbs and sprinkle over jacket potatoes or a potato salad.

The seeds are another underutilised part. I’m getting people to eat fresh fennel seeds (Foeniculum vulgare) – they’re green and taste beautifully of sweet anise and you can use them when making bread. Seeds, leaves, stems and flowers – they can all be used in so many ways and across the menu. Cordials, shrubs, vinegars, oils – there is more to herbs than a garnish.

Tips for chefs looking to start a herb garden

The first thing is to work out what you want first as there’s no point in growing herbs you’re not going to use. These are very ancient plants, and they’ve survived thousands of years by being invasive. So, if you don’t pick them and use them, they will smother the other plants you are growing.

Unfortunately, we have a two – three track mind on herbs. Prior to planting, experiment with different herbs, explore the different herb species and varieties and always pay attention to the Latin name. For example, there are some great oreganos and rosemary varieties out there. I’m loving Green Ginger Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) at present.

If you have a raised bed that you can use that’s great but, if not, containers and pots are fine. It might be you can make your herb garden a centrepiece. I created a herb garden for Nathan Outlaw in an old rowing boat. Clear the soil for any erroneous weeds and put down a good mulch of well-rotted manure. Ensure you sow at the right time and check the temperature of the soil before you sow.

Keep your mint in pots as they will take over your valuable little space. Also, keep your mints in separate pots. If you put a peppermint (Mentha × piperita) and spearmint (Mentha spicata) in the same pot, after six months they will end up tasting the same. They won’t taste of spearmint or peppermint – just mint.

Remember, there is a labour cost to growing your own herbs. You need to allocate chefs or members of your team to water and feed. You will need to water every day. People think of herbs as being wild so therefore they don’t need feeding. We have a mantra for pot grown herbs – feed on Fridays. We use a liquid seaweed feed, which is the same as you taking multi vitamins. That keeps the plant healthy and productive, which is what chefs need.

Let medicine be your food and food be your medicine

What you want in winter is herbs that will lift you spirts, aid digestion and be slightly antiseptic – believe it or not. That gives you thyme, sage, rosemary and even oregano. They’re made for foods of the season – warming dishes, at a time when our diet often becomes heavier and richer.

Thankfully, there is a growing understanding of the health benefits of food and how various ingredients can be used in a medicinal way. This certainly isn’t a new idea but it’s just that we have forgotten the knowledge. After all, Hippocrates said, let medicine be your food and food be your medicine – there is no truer saying. When it comes to medicinal foods, herbs are the leading light.