During the eighties, David saw the potential in a disused old jewellery shop 150 metres from the sea and together the happy couple
decided it was time to go their own way once again. Country Cousins Restaurant opened its doors in 1986 and celebrated its 40th birthday last April. Now 76 years old, David still runs the restaurant with the same vigour, enthusiasm and principles as when he started.

After 40 years I can honestly say I still love my job, says David:

“After 40 years I can honestly say I still love my job,” says David. “I actually retired a few years ago and leased out the business. It was a real struggle to adapt to doing nothing and when the new tenants couldn’t make it work, I didn’t hesitate in taking the reins again.”

The business employs around 16 staff members and serves around 150-200 covers a day. “It’s not like it used to be that’s for sure. We’d be doing 200-300 covers a day. Now it’s more like 150 midweek and 200 on a Sunday. The way people socialise and eat has changed and there is so much more competition now, plus the cost-of-living crisis is continuing to squeeze the pockets of consumers.”

With a friendly welcome, the finest customer service and excellent value, the restaurant focuses on traditional Devonshire home-cooked dishes made using locally sourced ingredients. “We have always stuck to what we know so I would say our menu
is very classical English. We offer great seafood as we have amazing produce on our doorstep, bountiful breakfasts, pies, burgers,
steaks, salads, ploughman’s, Devonshire cream teas and we also have an all-day carvery with seven veg, two types of potatoes and three meats on offer.”

“We use a wide selection of the Country Range products across our menu including the seasonings, sauces and key staple store cupboard ingredients. They never let us down.”

On the future, David has no plans to give it all up again. “I tried the retirement lark and that wasn’t for me. I will continue until I literally can’t do it anymore. I have two daughters who are my pride and joy so I am hoping one of them may continue the legacy.”

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1/ Sear It

The Vegetarian Society’s recipe for Savoy Cabbage, White Bean and Tamarind Mash with Curried Onion Sauce sears the cabbage to bring out its natural sweetness. Sam says, “This elegant dish is an unexpected blend of traditional Indian flavours. Topped with a fragrant curried onion sauce, it is a vegan celebration of wholesome ingredients and creative cooking.”
Recipe: https://vegsoc.org/national-vegetarianweek-2024-recipes-cabbage/

2/ Pancakes

Switch your pancakes up with a shiitake and cabbage alternative called Okonomiyaki. It uses shredded white cabbage, which is mixed into the batter alongside Worcestershire sauce. Sam says, “It is a savoury pancake that is sold by street food vendors in Japan.”
Recipe: https://vegsoc.org/recipes/okonomiyaki/

3/ Flavour with Garlic

Nick Beardshaw, Chef Patron at Starling recommends his Garlic Roasted Hispi Cabbage recipe. It uses hispi cabbage, also known as sweetheart cabbage, which is brushed all over with garlic butter and oven baked. To finish off, it is piped with roasted garlic mayo in neat lines over the cabbage.

4/ Grill It

Bennett Opie recommend partnering a charred whole sweetheart cabbage with tahini, lemon, garlic and zingy capers. The cabbage is cut into wedges, leaving the core intact to hold the leaves together. It is brushed with the tahini mixture and then grilled.

5/ Slaw It

The team at Maple Canada UK recommend combining red cabbage, tahini and maple syrup, shredding the red cabbage and adding finely sliced red onion for texture and flavour. An extra layer of freshness comes from a ribbon of carrot and courgette. The dressing blends tahini, lemon juice, olive oil and Canadian maple syrup.
Recipe: https://www.maplefromcanada.co.uk/

Waste Not, Want Not

“Raw cabbage can be added to salads, slaws, sandwiches and wraps. Or try finely shredding and adding to an omelette with onion. It’s delicious! If you have a glut, think about fermenting – start with sauerkraut,” says Sam.

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Jane Pendlebury, CEO of the Hospitality Professionals Association Comments:

Jane Pendlebury, CEO of the Hospitality Professionals Association (HOSPA), says, “As younger generations embrace a less alcohol dependent social scene, dining late into the evening offers social connection without the hangover. There’s also some
Mediterranean influence at play. Diners arebecoming more open to the idea that eating later can feel sociable and relaxed, rather
than simply functional.”atmosphere. A restaurant that still feels alive later in the evening can become part of the night-time economy, rather than somewhere guests visit before moving on elsewhere.”

Xiaoxiao Wang is founder of Noodle & Beer, which opened a branch in Chinatown last year. “Our Chinatown site was granted
a licence allowing us to trade into the early hours. Not every location has that opportunity, as it depends on planning permission and licensing.”

Noodle & Beer’s location in Chinatown is ideally suited to late night trading. “As we’re surrounded by bars, clubs and entertainment venues, it means we see a constant flow of customers late at night,” he says. “It’s not unusual to have people queuing to get in at 3am after a night out. It’s amazing to see that there’s still such strong demand for freshly cooked food at that time of night. Our signature Super King Braised Beef Noodle is the most popular late-night order.”

Reliable Security

Security is the biggest challenge. “Our team deals with every type of customer, and they do an incredible job of keeping the restaurant welcoming, safe and running smoothly. Our staff are the backbone of our late night operation and none of this would be possible without them.”

His advice for any restaurants considering late-night opening is to make sure the right team is in place and invest in reliable security. “Remember that operating late into the night can be significantly more expensive because of higher staffing and
operating costs, so make sure you’ve planned your budget carefully before extending your hours,” he says.

As a way of boosting bookings after 9pm, several restaurants have introduced incentives. Hawksmoor restaurants in Liverpool,
Manchester, Edinburgh and London offer a “Steak After Eight” promotion to encourage diners to stay out later, and The Duck & Waffle in Edinburgh has launched a ‘9pm Club’ offering 25% off food and drink after 9pm.

There are many benefits for restaurants staying open late. It can increase revenue as customers staying longer may order extra
food and drink, but it can also open up new customer segments such as theatregoers, workers finishing shifts and tourists accustomed to later dining hours.

Jane from HOSPA says, “The main benefit is better use of capacity. Prime-time tables are finite, but if a restaurant can extend demand beyond the traditional dinner window, it can increase revenue without necessarily needing more space. It can also help create a stronger

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Traditionally, desserts were perceived as an afterthought, something to be enjoyed at the end of a meal. Now consumers are looking for a sweet treat at any time of day, and the industry is responding to that demand by opening an increasing number of dessert-only outlets.

The Rise of the Dessert Café

Following this trend closely is Lucia Larragoiti, who owns La Maritxu with her husband, Ignacio, and serves only authentic Basque cheesecake. She says “People want to treat themselves on their own terms, at any time of day. A mid-morning slice of cheesecake with a coffee, or an afternoon pick-me-up – why not? There’s also something social about it. People want a reason to meet somewhere that feels a bit special, a bit indulgent, without committing to a full restaurant experience. A dessert café gives you that moment of joy without the formal setting.”

Lucia decided to focus on Basque cheesecake at La Maritxu outlets as she is from the Basque Country in Spain and saw how popular the dessert was there. “My advice to anyone entering the dessert business is don’t try to sell too many products. Make a few items and make them really good. That’s exactly what we’ve created. When people hear La Maritxu, they know exactly what they’re getting.”

Francisco Oliveira runs a collection of six Santa Nata café-bakeries, and like La Maritxu, has opted to focus his offering, serving only pastel de nata, the traditional Portuguese egg custard tart. “Dessert culture has grown significantly over the last few years. For me, focusing on one product allows us to obsess over every detail and try to make it the best possible version,” he says. “When I first moved to the UK, I’d never seen so many sweet concepts in one city!”

The Power of a Focused Dessert Offering

For restaurants wanting to boost their dessert offering, Lucia suggests giving desserts the same attention as savoury courses. “Too often dessert is a couple of generic options that haven’t changed in years. You would be surprised, but customers notice. Find one or two genuinely exceptional desserts and make them signature items people talk about. Presentation matters enormously too. A dessert that looks beautiful on the plate and photographs well will sell itself. And don’t underestimate the upsell – a well-trained front-of-house team that talks about desserts with genuine enthusiasm can transform your dessert revenue.”

The Little Dessert Shop does just that, gaining a reputation for highly photogenic creations and building a strong following on social media as a result. Its “viral” desserts include Golden Lotus Bananza French Toast, Custard Crumble Pots and Kunafa Cookie Dough.

Expanding Beyond Traditional Dessert Menus

While chains such as Heavenly Desserts, Creams Café and Kaspa’s Desserts are expanding, new operators are emerging in various categories. Cakes & Bakes has recently opened its 24th site, serving egg-free delights such as Ferrero Rocher Cake and Rosy Swirl Fantasy Cake, as well as vegan cupcakes with a range of toppings. Honeymoon Desserts, a dessert brand from Hong Kong, has opened its first Chinese dessert bar, offering dishes such as mango pomelo and sago sweet soup.

As dessert culture continues to develop, we are sure to see more experimentation, creativity and excitement within this category. No longer is dessert simply the end of a good meal; it is now enjoying its time in the spotlight as the main event.

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This month, our recipe inspiration comes from Ludwig Hely, Executive Pastry Chef at Haute Dolci, Charlotte O’Kelly, owner of Astrid Bakery, and vegan chef, Danielle Mauperuis.

Getting Fancy with a Financier

Raspberry and pistachio is one of Ludwig Hely’s favourite pairings as the fruit’s bright acidity cuts through the richness of the nut and keeps sugar levels down, letting the ingredients shine naturally. He serves the two ingredients together in a tart at Haute Dolci and tops each one with a toasted pistachio financier, piped raspberry jam, and a touch of gold leaf.

Feeling Jammy

Astrid Bakery’s Raspberry Jam Meringue dessert features a buttery pastry shell, a sweet-tart layer of raspberry jam, and a fluffy, torched meringue topping to perfectly balance the crunch of the pastry with the sweetness of the meringue and the fruity tang of the jam.

Crazy about Croissants

From Scottish-inspired Cranachan Croissant Cups featuring a crispy croissant pastry filled with a mix of fresh raspberries, toasted oats, cream, honey and smoky Islay whisky to flaky, cross-laminated Chocolate and Raspberry Croissants filled with a luscious raspberry whipped cream, Astrid Bakery makes the most of this classic Parisian pastry.

Oh La La! A French Sable Pastry

Danielle’s delicate vegan raspberry sablé delivers a crisp, buttery texture that perfectly balances the creamy panna cotta and fresh fruit topping. The key is keeping the pastry lightly worked and thoroughly chilled before baking, ensuring a tender, melt-in-the-mouth finish with a subtle sweetness and beautifully golden crumb.

Waste not, want not

Freezing is one of the simplest methods to preserve raspberries, helping retain flavour for smoothies, sauces, and baking. They can also be turned into jams, compotes, syrups, fruit vinegars, or fermented preparations, allowing chefs to capture seasonal flavour while reducing food waste. You can also freeze dry fresh berries for a granola topping for breakfast cereals or ice cream.

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From Builder to Pub Landlord

Dave was a builder and lorry driver before nearly losing his leg after a knee operation in 2019 ended in contracting sepsis on the operating table. With his knee never the same again, he needed a career re-think.

The epitome of a people person, Dave decided to move into hospitality, taught himself how to run a kitchen and set up the Crow’s Nest community café at the church hall in Moulton in Cheshire. “I always loved to cook and wanted to do something for the community, so the Crow’s Nest gave me a way in,” says Dave. “We offered the classic breakfasts, sandwiches, soups and snacks, plus hot and cold drinks. At the beginning, our customers were predominantly older locals and various groups linked to the church but by the end of the four years, we were the café of choice for everyone in the community, with the local tradesmen and builders even becoming regulars each morning.”

Building a Community Café from Scratch

With the business booming, Dave decided it was time to expand and scoped out the local area for space for a bigger café. Having no joy, he stumbled across a local pub that was giving nothing to the community and decided to turn it around.

A café by day and a pub by night, the Crow’s Nest at The Farmers Arms opened in 2024 and in a short time, Dave has put it on the must-visit map, while making it a hub for the local community and visitors. In a similar vein to the original Crow’s Nest, the café concentrates on British classics with bountiful breakfasts and pub grub that is inclusive to all.

Celebrating Community, Hospitality and Success

Recognised in a host of awards in 2026, the pub is a BII (British Institute of Innkeeping) quarter finalist and a Punch Community Pub of the Year finalist. It has also been nominated for the Great British Pub Awards and Pub Aid Best Community Pub Awards, with the winners to be announced later this year.

When Dave isn’t bottling up, changing kegs, cleaning, cooking, pulling pints or doing the numerous other jobs required in a day, he’s passionate about supporting local people, initiatives, groups and charities. In the last two and a half years, the pub has raised over £12,000 for charity with this year’s focus on the Cheshire Search and Rescue.

While many landlords are giving it all up due to market pressures, Dave isn’t. “Don’t get me wrong, it’s as tough as it has been for pubs with increases to employer’s NI, the minimum wage, business rates and now the conflict in Iran, all taking their toll on businesses, but I will never do anything else. I have found my place and it’s the best job in the world.”

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What is your current role, and what does it involve?

I am the chef-owner, so I oversee everything from menu development and kitchen operations to sourcing our local ingredients and maintaining close relationships with the producers we work with. I also take part in projects outside the restaurants, such as educational initiatives with local schools.

How long have you been a chef?

I’ve been working in kitchens for most of my life, growing up in a family deeply involved in hospitality. I officially became head chef early in my career, but food has always been part of my life.

How did you first get into cooking?

Some of my earliest memories are of my father cooking in the kitchens of our family’s hospitality businesses in Great Langdale. Being around food and service was just part of everyday life, so I absorbed it naturally rather than choosing it deliberately at first.

Where did you learn your craft?

I learned my craft through a combination of family influence, formal training, and working in various kitchens, including Restaurant Martin Wishart, Holbeck Ghyll in its heyday and as the head chef at Cottage in the Wood, Whinlatter Forest, before opening my first Restaurant – the Old Stamp House. My classical training helped refine the skills I had grown up with, allowing me to blend tradition with technique.

What was your first job in hospitality?

Working in my parents’ pub near Coniston was my first real experience. That is where I learned about running a kitchen, serving guests, and the importance of local produce.

What is your signature dish?

I don’t really have a signature dish, but if I were pushed, it would be Herdwick lamb. Having said that, our spiced mead velouté is something I’ll never take off the menu; it’s a constant and is always evolving. Both have taught me the importance of letting the ingredient guide the cooking and have shaped the way I approach all the dishes I cook.

What’s been your worst cooking disaster?

There were a couple of events last year in Bulgaria and Liverpool that didn’t go the way I wanted them to – but I’ll leave it at that.

What are your culinary ambitions?

My ambition is to keep evolving as a chef, constantly developing, and finding ways to improve. Success for me is about growth rather than accolades. I want to continue championing local produce and inspiring both my team and the next generation of cooks.

What do you like to eat?

Fish and shellfish – especially Carabineros prawns, which I ate celebrating winning my Michelin star, which I savoured alongside a glass of Champagne.

How do you achieve a work/life balance?

We work a four-day week, which we never deviate from, and we have a holiday roughly every eight weeks to coincide with school holidays. We plan the breaks 18 months in advance, so everyone knows the score.

If you were on a desert island, what five ingredients would you take with you?

Salt, olive oil, garlic, citrus fruit, and flour.

Best dish and drink combo for after a shift?

Mug of tea and a piece of fruit – absolute winner.

Favourite pub in the UK?

Heft, Newton in Cartmel, is one we visit a fair bit; their Sunday lunch offering – Sunday Service is pretty unique.

What is the best advice you were given?

It came from a Michelin inspector, who said after an inspection, keep doing what you do, keep your customers happy, and if you have a busy restaurant with happy customers, the awards will follow.

What is your favourite cookbook?

Countryman’s Cooking by W. M. Fowler.

If you hadn’t gone into the kitchen, what would be your career of choice?

I would have loved to have worked outside, either as a gillie or a gamekeeper.

What do you love most about your job?

I love being able to work with incredible local ingredients, create dishes that reflect the landscape and heritage of Cumbria, and share those experiences with guests. The relationships I have with suppliers and the team make it particularly rewarding.

What frustrates you about the industry?

I am frustrated when restaurants choose imported products like Wagyu beef over local, regenerative meat, especially given the challenges faced by local farmers and the importance of sustainability and social responsibility.

What do you consider your biggest achievement?

My family, my children and all that they are starting to achieve in their own journeys. Closely followed by retaining a Michelin star since 2019.

What do you have planned for the rest of 2026?

I am involved in a project with the local charity Waste into Wellbeing, teaching Year 5 pupils across Kendal how to cook while raising awareness about food waste, nutrition, and healthy choices. It is exciting to pass on knowledge and inspire the next generation while championing sustainability and local produce.

Find out more

For more information visit The Old Stamphouse website.

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What was your first job in hospitality?

I used to work on Saturdays at a then two Michelin-starred restaurant near Scunthorpe called Winteringham Fields. I used to do little bits of prep and help wash up. I loved it. I always wanted to work in the evening so I could see the real food, not just the lunch menu, but I wasn’t allowed, as I was only 15. As soon as I finished school, I started full-time.

What were the key steps in your development and career?

My first two jobs were in two Michelin-starred restaurants, and it was incredibly hard. I always thought you need to be in a minimum two-star restaurant to learn anything. The reality is they don’t teach you how to cook, just to follow recipes and work fast. When I got a job working in a three AA-rosette hotel, I started to learn more things, not just how to follow recipes.

When did you become a head chef?

I got my first head chef job at 26, in Cumbria, at The Cottage in the Wood. I’m very grateful to Kath and Liam (the then owners) for giving me an opportunity to cook my own food for the first time. I was again out of my depth and had to learn on my feet, but it was so much fun. During my time there, I won three AA rosettes, which I was incredibly proud of, as they hadn’t achieved that accolade before in nearly 15 years.

Describe your cooking style?

I think my food is classically based, seasonal, relying on the best produce and presented in a clean, modern and unfussy way.

What’s the next target?

Any chef with one star and three rosettes is probably going to say two stars and four rosettes, and I’m no different, really. It’s probably a long way off for us, but I’m in no rush.

What cuisines, flavours, ingredients or techniques are you loving right now?

I’ve always loved Thai food; I eat it probably three or four times a week, and there’s a real movement in London of fantastic Thai places doing more than just green curries and pad thai. Hopefully, that trend moves north as we need a good Thai restaurant in Carlisle.

Can the industry do anything better?

Training. I’ve had some chefs come to me who have worked in great restaurants, but can’t scramble eggs. It’s not their fault; everyone is desperate for staff, so things can fall through the cracks, but what future does the industry have if the next generation can only put herbs onto food with tweezers?

Three tips vital for success in a kitchen?

An ability to listen is paramount. So many mistakes are made because people didn’t really listen to what they were
being told.

Every day, you will learn something new if you’re humble enough to accept that even the worst chef can teach you something.

Life in a kitchen is so much nicer when egos are left at the door, and you work together, not against each other.

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Of course, Hom’s influence stretches far beyond the cookware aisle. Through bestselling cookbooks, pioneering television programmes and decades spent championing authentic Chinese cuisine on the global stage, he has inspired generations of chefs and home cooks alike. Long before international food culture became commonplace, Ken Hom was introducing audiences to regional Chinese dishes, techniques and traditions with a warmth and accessibility that made him one of the world’s most trusted culinary voices.

As the Ken Hom wok celebrates its 40th anniversary, we sat down with the culinary legend to reflect on a journey that continues to influence kitchens around the world.

What was the original vision behind creating your wok brand and did you ever imagine it would still be in kitchens around the world four decades later?

I was always interested in getting kitchens to stir-fry and to use the wok – In a way, it has confirmed my vision was correct, that anyone can use a wok!

Do you remember the first moment when you realised the wok had become more than a kitchen tool and had grown into a global brand?

When I realised that it was not just Great Britain or Europe buying it, but everywhere.

What are some of the most surprising places where you’ve encountered people using your wok?

Places like Rio de Janeiro, Sofia, even in Asia! That was the real surprise.

Which career moments stand out as the most transformative in helping you become one of the world’s most recognised ambassadors for Chinese cuisine?

Without a doubt, my seminal series in 1984 with BBC: Ken Hom’s Chinese Cookery. I never imagined it would be so successful, popular and change the landscape of cookery in the world.

Was there a particular mentor who had a lasting impact on you?

There were many: Madhur Jaffrey, Delia Smith, Julia Child and Jacques Pépin.

What do you think made your programmes resonate so strongly with audiences?

That Chinese cooking was easy, quick and most importantly, anyone could do it.

What progress in Chinese cooking are you most proud of to have witnessed in the UK?

How it has now become part of British culture.

If you could choose one dish that best tells the story of your life and career, what would it be?

A simple stir-fried dish. Stir-fried pork with spring onions, because it is easy foolproof and delicious.

Have there been moments when you faced significant setbacks or doubts, and how did they shape you?

I have been incredibly lucky not to have any significant setbacks. My success is also part of many friends and family who have always believed in me. It gave me strength.

Is there one story that perfectly captures the unexpected journey your career has taken?

I remember in the mid-90’s when filming my BBC series, Hot Wok, when the heat did not come on at the right moment, I simply smiled and continued!

As you celebrate this milestone, what ambitions or projects do you have for the future?

I really enjoy working on behalf of charities and giving back, it gives me great joy.

What opportunities do you see for the next generation of chefs to continue promoting Chinese cuisine on the global stage?

Fortunately, there are so many as Chinese cuisine, like China, is now part of a great positive movement of sharing. It’s exciting to see such constant creativity for regional cuisine.

If you could sit down with the young Ken Hom of 1986 on the day the first wok launched, what advice would you give him?

Be positive and concentrate on giving your best. Share your love of cooking with the world.

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To celebrate the 25th anniversary of British Food Fortnight (26 September – 11 October), the organiser Love British Food and official retail partner, Morrisons has launched the search for its 2026 Champion of Change – an individual, group or organisation using British food to make a positive difference where they live.

They could be growing fresh produce for families who need it, turning surplus food into affordable meals, teaching children to cook from scratch, bringing older people together over lunch, or a local farm co-operative helping more people understand where their food comes from.

Whatever the scale, the competition aims to celebrate the people whose ideas, energy and everyday actions are strengthening communities through food.

Love British Food founder, Alexia Robinson, said: “This competition is about finding and celebrating the local heroes who are bringing people together through British food, often without getting the recognition they deserve.

“We want to hear about anyone making a difference in their community, whether that’s transforming community growing-spaces, rescuing and redistributing surplus food, providing cookery lessons or delivering farm-to-fork experiences that help people connect with fresh, seasonal produce. British Food Fortnight has celebrated the food grown and produced across the country for 25 years, but it’s the people behind these grassroots initiatives who bring it to life by driving changes that benefit local communities.

“Share your unsung food heroes with us and help us uncover inspiring stories from communities across the country – stories that can encourage others to take action and create change through British food.”

Last year’s competition was won by Loughborough charity, Pro-Active Community Endeavour (PACE), which supports local people of all ages and brings them together around healthy home-cooked meals made with fresh, local, British produce.

Morrisons Community Manager, Joseph Clark-Bland, said: “As a champion of British food, Morrisons is proud to support British Food Fortnight’s Community Competition and this year’s search for a worthy Champion of Change.

“This is a chance to celebrate the unsung community heroes who are working tirelessly to make British food the first choice on every plate.

“This competition provides an exciting platform to recognise those having a lasting impact on their communities by developing a stronger connection with British food.”

Could someone you know be a Champion of Change?

Your nominee might be someone who is:
• Putting British produce at the heart of meals in a school, hospital, care home, restaurant, workplace, farm shop or community setting.
• Helping people discover where their food comes from and why choosing British matters.
• Bringing farmers, growers, cooks, customers or communities closer together.
• Cutting food waste or food miles, sharing surplus produce, or making fresh seasonal food easier to access.
• Using British food to improve wellbeing, support local people or inspire healthier and more sustainable choices.

Give your food hero their moment

Nominating is simple. Visit the competition page and tell us, in no more than 500 words, who your Champion of Change is, what they are doing and why their story deserves to be celebrated.

The winner will receive a special hamper, courtesy of Morrisons, and an oak plaque to commemorate their achievement. They will also feature across Love British Food’s website and social media channels, as well as in a dedicated press release to national and regional media.

Entries close at midnight on Sunday 11 October 2026.

Submit a nomination

Someone extraordinary may already have sprung to mind. To find out more and submit a nomination, visit the Love British Food website.

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