Are there any variants of potato you would recommend?

Vivaldi are lovely and brilliant for mash and jacket potatoes. Desiree are another beautiful variety with gorgeous red skin that are amazing when chipped, wedged or roasted. Charlotte potatoes are superb in salads and Pink Firs are the smaller knobbly potatoes, almost like thick fingers, that look unique on the plate and have a slightly nutty flavour. New Early Comber potatoes, which are grown in the town of Comber near County Down in Ireland, are also very special. They are similar to Jerseys but I actually think a little bit better so keep an eye out for them.

Should we be looking at potatoes more seasonally?

I was speaking to Claire Koffman – Piere Koffman’s wife who makes stupendously good potato dishes. She says it is so upsetting that people don’t quite understand the season of potatoes. Because of the storage qualities of potatoes, the seasons are often forgotten. It’s so important to use the right potato for the right dish. For me in winter, I stick to the King Edwards and Maris Piper. They provide a great yield and are perfect for Sunday roasts. In spring, I get really excited about the coming of the earlies when the new potato season kicks off. In season, they’re generally cheaper and as good as they get so all chefs should be making the most of them. During summer, I like a waxier potato such as Fingerling or Pink Fir to provide a twist to dishes. In autumn, I start to move back to the bigger boys such as Vivaldi and Desiree, and I absolutely love a Cyprus potato for chips or fries.

What are your top tips when working with potatoes?

Never waste the peel. I’m a big air fryer fan, which are great for making the most out of your potato waste. Load your peel with salt, maybe a bit of parmesan and air fry at 180˚C for 5-10 min for little crispy strips of peel pleasure. You can also do it in the oven. When I do dauphinoise, fries or anything that is being baked like a leek bake – I leave the skins on. It makes no difference, provides texture and adds to the flavour. Peel on means the dish tastes more potatoey.

How do you make the perfect fries?

I’m a triple cooked girl. I have tried all the techniques for chips, fries and all that’s in between, but it’s triple cooked all the way for consistency. Parboil, drain onto a rack, into the fridge to cool for an hour and then in to the fat at 140/150 and then increase it. Take them out, dry off the oil and then back in to finish.

What about mash? John Torode says he only uses a fork to mash – do you agree?

I peel and cut my spuds into 2cm round slices, not cubes. This means they cook evenly. Cold water and bring to a boil and I use the most heinous amount of salt in the water – saltier than the sea. I don’t add any more salt though. A bit like pasta. I made a batch at work and didn’t use enough salt in the water so added salt after.

I parboil, drain, steam dry, like with my roasties and then I pass them through a sieve or you can use a ricer. A drum sieve is fantastic. You can keep your fork Mr Torode. I will add lots of cubes of butter as I push the potato through the sieve as the fat will help the molecules stay together – the fat coats the starch molecules. Then only stirring the hot cream in until it is just in. Stir too much and it will go gloopy, rather than silky fluffiness.

Why do you love potatoes?

The question should be – how can anyone not love potatoes? Spuds are life. They are one of the most versatile, easily accessible ingredients that everyone can get their hands on. A huge part of life in a British kitchen, there are so many ways to use them to create deliciousness. If anyone says that they don’t like potatoes, they’re liars. You can’t tell me you don’t like chips.

Can you remember your first potato memories?

Shovelling peas and mash into my mouth probably. Between the ages of 3 and 7, I was obsessed with mashed potatoes. I would request that classic holy trinity – mash, peas and tomato sauce, which I would mix all together and devour. I had a pie yesterday at the pub and it came with mash and peas. I couldn’t help but request ketchup to mix in and I’m happy to say it stood the test of time. As I got older, chips started to dominate the potato podium. I even used to have those boxes of microwavable chips.

When did you cook potatoes for the first time?

At work I was put on potato duty at the first pub I worked in. I was a pot wash but peeling and chipping potatoes was my other job. I wasn’t allowed to cook them though. As I progressed with my career in restaurants, I would be making dauphinoise potatoes and potato fondants in Michelin kitchens. It wasn’t really my section so maybe they saw a potato passion deep within me. I like to think it was meant to be and I was good at it. Maybe the god of potatoes looked down at me as the chosen one. Let’s go with that.

How much experimenting have you done?

One of the restaurants I worked in had a flat next door which was rented out. It wasn’t meant to be anything to do with me but it became my job to make all the potato dishes in advance, which would then be cooked up for the guests staying in the flat. It was during this time that I really got to grips with all the incredible different ways that they could be served. It’s probably where the beginnings of the book started. I would have all these different recipes from chefs and I would be practising them, tweaking them and working out potato tips and techniques for myself.

Where can chefs expand their potato sources?

I would say that you need to head to your wholesale markets, visit the local growers in your area, go to farmer markets, check out the stalls on the side of A-roads and even experiment with growing your own. You will find so many different varieties and there is a potato for every situation.

I have mainly used the well-known varieties like Maris Piper as they’re one of the most widely available and consistent but be spud-curious and keep your eye out for the multitude of different varieties that come in all shapes, colours and sizes.

What’s the perfect Poppy roast tatty?

I boil from cold water for 10-15 minutes – a bit longer than normal. Drain them in a colander, then put it back over the pan with the drained water with a tea towel on top. The residual heat and steam will dry them out. They stay there for about 5 minutes and then go onto a ferociously hot oven tray with vegetable oil. For the crisp finish, I find vegetable oil is the best. If you like a bit of added flavour, beef dripping is great but you don’t quite get the crispness. I’m actually addicted to lamb potatoes at the minute. A leg of lamb roasted over the potatoes, flavours them perfectly. They don’t get as crispy but that luscious lamb fattiness is an absolute winner.

WIN!

We have one copy of The Potato Book to give away to one lucky reader! Go checkout The Country Club

The post Advice from the Experts – Cooking with Potatoes appeared first on Stir it up Magazine.

When did you decide or know you were going to be a chef?

For as long as I can remember, my passion has always been food, simply because I have always loved eating, but I remember exactly when the idea of being a chef started to form. I was 14 and let’s just say I was terrible at school. The only lesson I looked forward to was home economics. I remember realising that for the first time, I was actually better than everyone else in the class. I always thought I was a bit thick at school but once I was in a kitchen my brain clicked, I picked things up easily and everything made sense.

What do you love most about your job?

Developing recipes and I think I always have. Every chef starts with an idea and then develops it – that’s always been very exciting for me. In the fine dining restaurants where I worked it was often about making it as intricate, complicated and amazing as possible. For my Poppy Cooks Tik Tok channel in some ways it is the opposite. In a professional kitchen, I always started by actually drawing a picture of the dish and then working out what each element can be and fill in the gaps as I went forward and tested it. For Tik Tok, I try to focus on everyday, quintessential much-loved dishes and see how I can give them a twist or ramp up the flavour.

Tell us about the new book and are Air Fryers something professional kitchens should utilise more?

Air Fryers are an incredible piece of equipment for so many reasons, but the book isn’t about gimmicky recipes that can be done in an Air Fryer. As the titles alludes to – I guarantee they are all actually delicious and the air fryer is definitely a piece of kit that is going to be here for a very long time. They’re convenient, energy efficient, quick and easy, simple and mess-free – they’re honestly so good. In the past, kitchens without a lot of space or resources would often use microwaves or deep fat fryers but the final result and convenience of an air fryer is so much better.

How has being a judge on Young MasterChef been?

I have loved it. It was quite intimidating at first learning all of the TV technicalities but I’m still in touch with a lot of the former contestants from my first series. Filming starts again in August and I’m really looking forward to it. I feel I know what I am doing now. The contestants are not specifically looking for a career in food but are studying things like accountancy, engineering and law but that’s fine – it’s great to see the passion for food in the next generation, whether it’s professional or home cooks.

What do you miss most about the professional restaurant kitchen?

My boyfriend still says, “You used to work 70 hours a week and you still miss it?”. It’s the pressure, the thrill and the adrenaline. That moment when everyone knows their job, and everything is seamless and effortless. That is a great feeling – the teamwork. Even compared to the TV, nothing competes with the energy and buzz of a professional kitchen.

What is your favourite meal of the day and why?

Lunch. I adore to feast on picky bits and sandwiches. Pickles, cheeses, great bread, lovely sandwiches with whatever is in the fridge.

Do you have a favourite cuisine?

It changes but I’m obsessed with Korean flavours and ingredients at the moment. I went for a Korean BBQ and it blew my mind. I haven’t had an opportunity to have loads, but I want more of the Tteokbokki – the rice cakes.

What are your three kitchen secrets to beat waste?

Ferment and pickle.

Vegetable peel and cuttings for stock.

Everyone always makes too much pasta and throws it away – a few fresh ingredients and a dressing and you have an amazing pasta salad.

If you have small amounts of sauces left at the bottom of jars or bottles – add in mayonnaise, shake and mix well, and you will ensure zero waste and make some surprisingly incredible bespoke condiments.

What is your favourite ingredient in late summer?

It’s great when the first pumpkins and squashes arrive. Roasted squash with chorizo, kale, a touch of tomato paste and rigatoni pasta – it’s simple and delicious.

Who are you most proud to have cooked for?

Michel Roux Jr was a great honour. We actually competed in a potato off. He made this amazing smoked salmon dauphinoise potato delight, which was unreal, and I thought I had no chance, but my potato doughnut dish actually won. People love a spudnut.

What are your future goals?

I don’t set goals. There is a little bit of me that thinks I want a restaurant someday, but I realise how much hard work it is and how stressful it can be. I really enjoy the Young MasterChef and I love teaching people, so the goal is just to pass on all I learn in my lifetime to help other people love food and enjoy life through cooking.

Can you share a recipe from the new book that is great for late summer/early Autumn?

A spring roll makes sense in the air fryer because you’ll achieve that perfect crisp that is so satisfying. Try shredding any veg you have in the fridge to mix it up, or even add a bit of shredded chicken or beef.

The post Poppy O’Toole (AKA Poppy Cooks) appeared first on Stir it up Magazine.

“As I child, I really couldn’t stop eating so baking or cooking with my gran was always a good ploy to get to eat. It was at Purnells where I really learnt my craft. Molecular gastronomy, making gels for the first time, using liquid nitrogen – it was an eye-opening experience,” explains Poppy

Moving to London in 2017, Poppy continued her food journey, at JP Morgan followed by the all-female members’ club AllBright in 2019. The start of the pandemic heralded a significant change.

“When the first lockdown hit, like many in hospitality, I didn’t really know what to do or what the future held. I rushed back to my parents’ house and after seeing my younger brother and sister on Tik Tok, I thought it would be a good way to keep busy so set up a page. The reaction was crazy and it has just grown from there really.”

With a no-nonsense, happy approach to cooking and a focus on the Michelin technical skills she learnt in fine dining establishments, Poppy is now one of Tik Tok’s most popular foodie influencers with just over 1.6 million followers. 

“Most people will know I am incredibly passionate about the humble potato so hopefully this Bacon-y Garlic-y Potato-y recipe showcases my appreciation. It’s just yum” says Poppy.

Bacon-y Garlic-y Potato-y

Serves 4

The core

500ml/2 cups whole milk

50g/2oz butter

70g/2½oz plain flour

½ tsp salt

½ tsp ground nutmeg

200g/7oz your choice of cheese, grated

1. Warm the milk over a medium heat for 7 minutes.

2. In a separate pan add the butter and allow it to melt. Then, using a wooden spoon, gradually beat in the flour, until you have a thick paste.

3. Once all the flour is in, cook, stirring until you have a dough-like consistency and the paste is coming away from the sides of the pan.

4. Gradually add the warmed milk, making sure you allow the first addition to fully incorporate into the paste before adding more. Keep mixing to avoid lumps.

5. Once all the milk is in and you have a smooth, thick sauce, season with the salt and nutmeg.

6. Add your cheese and stir to melt in. 

For the gratin

4 large potatoes, peeled and sliced into 5mm-thick (¼ inch) rounds

1 tsp salt, plus extra to season

200g/7oz smoked bacon lardons

3 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped

2 rosemary sprigs, leaves picked and roughly chopped

100g/3½oz cheddar, grated

black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/400°F/Gas 6.

2. Tip the spuds into a large saucepan and cover with water. Add the salt and place over a high heat. Bring to the boil, then cook for about 7 minutes, until tender.

4. While the spuds are boiling, add the lardons to a cold frying pan and place over a medium heat. Fry for about 6 minutes, until cooked through and golden. Remove from the pan and set aside on a plate lined with kitchen paper.

3. Drain the potatoes, then suspend the colander in the potato pan and cover with a clean tea towel for about 5 minutes, until the potatoes have steamed off and dried out a bit.

5. Tip one third of the spuds into a medium ovenproof dish, spreading them out in an even layer. Season and sprinkle over one third each of the garlic, rosemary, lardons and cheese. Top with a good ladleful of cheese and repeat twice more, until the dish is full and finish with a final sprinkling of cheese. Bake for 30 minutes, until golden and a bit crispy on top. Dig in!

Poppy Cooks: The Food You Need is out on 16 September 2021 (Bloomsbury, £16.99)

Photography © Louise Hagger

The post My Signature Dish – Poppy O’Toole appeared first on Stir it up Magazine.